The novel’s fictional character Parthenia Leila Ellis, of course, wore full black mourning because she was a new widow. But her good friend, the historical figure Elisa Brownlow might have worn something like this pretty plum wheat dress with bell-shaped Pagoda sleeves. It was made by Civil War reenactor and dressmaker “sarahanne” of Virginia. Her Victorian Times blog features this dress and others of similar design and materials.